Summary:
- The National Art Center in Tokyo hosts Bvlgari's largest Japanese exhibition from September 17 to December 15, 2025
- Nearly 350 pieces explore color through three themes: science, symbolism, and light
- Contemporary artists and Japanese architects create an environment blending Roman and Japanese design
The National Art Center in Tokyo prepares for Bvlgari's most extensive Japanese exhibition. Bvlgari Kaleidos: Colours, Cultures and Crafts opens September 17 and runs through December 15, 2025. The Italian Embassy in Japan supports the show.
Nearly 350 pieces fill the galleries. The collection draws from Bvlgari's Heritage Collection, private collections, and new commissions. Color drives every selection.
The exhibition name combines Greek words "kalos" (beautiful) and "eidos" (form). This reflects the show's focus on beauty in motion. Three sections organize the display: The Science Of Colour, Colour Symbolism, and The Power Of Light.
Jean-Christophe Babin, Bvlgari's CEO, views the exhibition as heritage celebration. Each piece represents cultural fusion and exceptional color from nature. Tokyo shares Bvlgari's balance between tradition and innovation.
Color Revolution in High Jewelry
Founder Sotirio Georgis Bulgari first explored colored stones in the early years. The mid-20th century marked the company's color revolution. While other luxury jewelers preferred platinum and monochrome designs, Bvlgari chose yellow gold settings for sapphires, rubies, and emeralds.
The brand elevated stones others considered semi-precious. Amethyst, citrine, and turquoise gained prominence for their color intensity rather than rarity. These gems caught and held light in new ways.
Cabochon cuts became the signature style. This technique creates smooth, luminous surfaces that enhance each stone's depth. This approach established Bvlgari's reputation as the master of colored gemstones.
Scientific Approach to Color
The Science of Colours section showcases technical mastery. A citrine bracelet in gold and platinum from around 1940 appears for the first time outside Italy. Orange tones recall Roman sunsets.
A 1954 platinum bangle contrasts deep cabochon sapphires with rubies. Red and blue clash while diamonds add brightness. Another display combines emeralds, amethysts, turquoises, and diamonds in a necklace-and-earring set. The pairing creates bold chromatic effects.
Scientific principles guide the display. Visitors observe how different hues interact through these jewelry pieces.
Cultural Meanings Through Color
Colour Symbolism explores how different cultures interpret specific hues. Visual impact shares importance with cultural meaning. Jade pieces appear throughout this section.
The legendary Seven Wonders necklace from 1961 anchors the display. Platinum holds diamonds and seven prominent emeralds. Monica Vitti and Gina Lollobrigida once wore this piece from the Invernizzi collection. The necklace returns to Tokyo after a decade.
Light as Creative Medium
The Power of Light treats precious metals and gems as surfaces for illumination. A unique yellow gold sautoir from 1969 transforms into bracelets. Amethysts, turquoises, citrines, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds create kaleidoscopic effects.
A Serpenti evening bag from 1978 features three gold colors with silk cord and diamonds. The rare acqua di mare hue demonstrates Bvlgari's goldsmithing skills alongside stone-setting expertise.
Contemporary Artist Collaborations
Three artists contribute new works. Italy-based Lara Favaretto transforms industrial car-wash brushes into spinning sculptures. Level Five studies color, rhythm, and movement through hypnotic motion.
Japanese artist Mariko Mori creates Onogoro Stone III, merging ancient Japanese mythology with futuristic materials. The work provides contemplative space for cosmic balance.
Akiko Nakayama, also from Japan, presents Echo. Water, mineral pigments, and sound combine in live projection. The breathing painting mirrors the transformation of facing gemstones.
Japanese-Italian Design Fusion
Japanese architects Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of Sanaa collaborate with Italian design studio Formafantasma. The scenography blends Roman mosaics with Tokyo's ginkgo leaf forms.
Curves, translucent surfaces, and shifting color effects guide visitors. Roman identity merges with Japanese elegance throughout the space.
The entrance displays symbolic pieces. A gold paperweight shaped like a Roman temple includes lapis lazuli, onyx, and diamond inlays. A circular mother-of-pearl brooch features polychrome enamels and diamonds. These pieces represent shared values of beauty, precision, and craftsmanship.
Ayako Miyajima, senior curator at the National Art Center, describes the exhibition as contemplative encounter. Visitors experience the company's creativity through its most symbolic lens: color.
The exhibition demonstrates how color transcends cultural boundaries while respecting individual traditions. Bvlgari's approach to colored gemstones continues influencing contemporary jewelry design fifty years after the original revolution.
Discover the exhibition here.
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Kristin Kaye
Insatiably curious about human expression, she immerses herself in literature, theater, art, and dance. Her academic journey led to degrees in Modern Literature, where she delved into The Furioso, and Historical Sciences with a focus on Contemporary History. Her studies took her to the prestigious Erasmus University Rotterdam, broadening her international perspective.
Her passion for culture isn't confined to personal enjoyment—it spills onto the pages of various publications. There, she explores not only artistic endeavors but also civil rights issues and the myriad ways human culture manifests itself. For her, writing about these topics isn't just a profession; it's an irresistible calling that stems from her deep-seated fascination with the human experience.