
Summary
- Maison Margiela introduces the Tabi Collector's Series, an annual tribute starting with the Broken Mirror Embroidery edition limited to 25 pairs
- Each shoe features hand-embroidered work using over 8,000 glass beads, sequins, and laser-cut metallic fragments arranged to replicate fractured glass
- The design revives a technique from the Autumn/Winter 2015 Artisanal collection, now adapted into three-dimensional form for the Tabi silhouette
Maison Margiela debuts a new annual series dedicated to its signature split-toe Tabi boot. The first release, called the Broken Mirror Embroidery edition, arrives with strict scarcity. Only 25 pairs exist worldwide.
The project represents Creative Director Glenn Martens' approach to the Belgian fashion house. The designer took over from his predecessor and maintains the brand's focus on experimental construction methods. His background leading Y/Project shows in this latest release.
The Broken Mirror technique originated in the Autumn/Winter 2015 Artisanal collection. Former Creative Director John Galliano presented the embellishment across several pieces during that season. A dress and an overcoat featured the treatment. Martens now translates the flat embroidery technique into a three-dimensional application for footwear.
The construction process requires significant manual labor. Eleven artisans work on each pair to complete the intricate embroidery. The upper surface receives more than 8,000 individual components. These include hand-crafted glass beads, sequins, and laser-cut metallic fragments.
The arrangement of these elements creates a specific visual effect. The pattern mimics aged glass with natural fractures and depth variations. This effect builds on Maison Margiela's history of working with reflective materials and experimental surface treatments.
The split-toe Tabi design dates back decades in the Maison Margiela archive. The silhouette references traditional Japanese footwear with its divided toe box. Under Martens' direction, the style continues as a core element of the brand's identity.
Production of the Broken Mirror Tabi demands precision at every stage. Each component must be placed individually by hand. The laser-cut metallic pieces require exact positioning to maintain the fractured glass illusion. The process takes considerable time per pair.
Maison Margiela plans to document the creation process through film. Italian Director Yuri Ancarani will produce the piece. The film will show the development from initial concept through finished product. This documentation adds another layer to the Collector's Series concept.
The Tabi Collector's Series establishes a new release structure for the fashion house. One special edition will appear each year. This format creates ongoing interest in the Tabi silhouette while allowing the brand to explore different artistic techniques and collaborations.
The Broken Mirror edition went on display at select Maison Margiela locations starting October 30, 2025. The limited availability means most stores will not stock the shoes. Interested buyers need to visit specific flagship locations.
The pricing reflects the artisanal production and limited quantity. Each pair represents hours of manual work by specialized craftspeople. The materials, from hand-crafted glass beads to laser-cut metal, add to the production cost.
This release strategy differs from standard fashion production cycles. Instead of seasonal collections with broad distribution, the Collector's Series focuses on exclusivity and craft. The approach aligns with growing interest in artisanal fashion production among collectors.
Martens continues to shape Maison Margiela's direction since taking the creative lead. His work balances respect for the house codes established by founder Martin Margiela with contemporary design sensibilities. The Tabi Collector's Series exemplifies this balance between archive references and new interpretations.
The Broken Mirror technique demonstrates how historical brand elements gain new life through fresh applications. What appeared on garments in 2015 now covers footwear in 2025. This reinterpretation extends the life of signature Maison Margiela aesthetics across product categories.
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Jade Nichole
Based in Berlin, I work as a fashion marketer and archivist, crafting thoughtful words and strategic narratives for screens, social feeds, and cultural moments. I have a passion for uncovering niche trends, internet nostalgia, and those unexpected sparks of creativity that often come at 3AM.
@jadedjuniper

