In a quiet apartment in Stockholm, surrounded by sketches, samples, and the occasional sandal prototype, Martin Sallières is building something honest: Martin Sallières. After years designing for cult-favorite brands like Filling Pieces and Sunnei, the French-born designer has opened his namesake label.
It all began with an invitation, almost casual. “A friend told me, ‘I have a showroom in Paris, do you want to show something?’” Sallières recalls. “At the time, I had nothing. But I thought about it, called a factory I trust, and three months later, I had a collection.”
The result is not a manifesto, nor a marketing strategy. It’s a series of thoughtful, proportion-driven shoes that carry his quiet confidence and obsessive eye for detail. The collection includes sneakers with lifted toe boxes and sunken heels, sandals inspired by his father’s summer shoes, and silhouettes that toe the line between familiarity and friction. “I like to keep things simple, but the proportions need to be right. That’s where the tension is.”
There’s a sense of precision that runs through the work, but it doesn’t feel cold. The materials, soft vegetable-tanned leathers, clean finishes, are tactile and lived-in. The gender boundaries are fluid. “I wanted the sandals to feel more feminine, softer. The sneakers are maybe a bit more structured. But it’s all unisex in the end.”
The decision to open his own label came naturally, if unexpectedly. “I never imagined starting something with my name,” he says. “But naming a brand today feels impossible. Everything’s taken, or artificial. Using my name felt like the most honest choice.”
The entire project moves like that: not loud, but intentional. There are no slogans, no oversized branding. Just a designer making shoes on his own terms. It’s a pace Sallières has grown to enjoy. “When you work for a brand, you’re given a box. You explore its limits. When it’s your own label, there is no box. You build the shape yourself.”
That doesn't mean he’s closing the door to collaborations. When asked about whispers of a potential partnerships, he laughs. “I wish. That would be amazing.”
For now, the focus is steady. The label launched with a limited showroom presentation, followed by direct-to-consumer release in early 2026. A dedicated website is in the works, with plans for pre-orders and a tighter, more curated distribution model. “I’m still freelancing,” he adds. “But this is what I want to grow.”
His background might be rooted in footwear, but the vision feels broader. Still, he’s not in a rush to expand. “Shoes still challenge me. I know them well, but there’s always a new proportion to try, a new balance to strike. Until I’m bored, I’ll keep doing this.”
In an industry where speed and spectacle often outweigh depth, Martin Sallières is taking a different route: slower, more precise, and completely his own.
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Alessandro Bello
Alessandro Bello is based in Amsterdam, working in marketing for a fashion brand with a passion for the fashion business and the latest trends. Always exploring how the industry evolves and shapes the future.
@alessandro.bello1