MATTHIEU BLAZY TAKES OVER CHANEL

Summary:

• Matthieu Blazy presented his first collection as Chanel's creative director, one of the season's most anticipated shows
• The collection drew from house archives and Coco Chanel's original fabrics while introducing Blazy's signature approach to volume and tailoring
• Three chapters structured the presentation: Un Paradox, Le Jour, and L'Universel, exploring Coco's relationship with Boy Capel and the concept of inherited garments

Matthieu Blazy showed his first collection for Chanel during a season filled with designer debuts. The presentation attracted particular attention due to Blazy's acclaimed tenure at Bottega Veneta and Chanel's status as one of fashion's most influential houses. Since Karl Lagerfeld's death, the house has searched for direction that honors its history while pushing forward.

Blazy approached the collection through celestial themes, a recurring motif in Chanel's archives. "For this first show of Chanel I wanted to do something quite universal, like a dream, something outside of time, and I remained fascinated by the universe of stars, a theme so dear to the house. We all observe the same sky and I think it provokes in us the same emotions", the designer stated.

The collection returned to core principles: elegance, simplicity, and craftsmanship. Blazy interpreted these foundations through his distinct perspective, shaped by formative years working with Raf Simons and Maison Margiela. He worked with original textiles from Coco Chanel's era while simultaneously constructing a contemporary vision of the Chanel woman.

Three distinct chapters organized the presentation. Un Paradox examined the exchange between masculine tailoring and feminine wardrobe, referencing the clothes Coco shared with Boy Capel during their relationship. This section explored gender fluidity within formal dressing, a recurring theme in Blazy's work.

Le Jour presented daywear that balanced structure with ease. Tailored jackets appeared alongside flowing skirts. Transparent fabrics layered over solid foundations. The section demonstrated how formal codes shift when applied to daily life.

L'Universel concluded the show with pieces that transcended specific moments or occasions. These designs addressed the concept of legacy, garments passed between generations. This approach aligns with Chanel's identity as a house built on enduring style rather than fleeting trends.

Blazy brought his signature elements to the house codes. Volume appeared in sleeves and skirts. Fringe details added movement and texture. Tailoring received meticulous attention, with construction visible in the garments' lines and proportions. Transparent materials revealed underlying structures. The designer emphasized material quality and tactile presence, aspects some observers felt had diminished in recent years.

The designer spoke about his approach to Business of Fashion: "We had two roads. Either we do a clean, modern Chanel show, according to the rules and following the manual, and it's a first step. Or we do it as if it were the last."

This statement reveals Blazy's awareness of the position he occupies. Chanel carries weight in fashion history. Every collection invites comparison to decades of iconic moments. The designer chose to present a complete vision rather than a cautious introduction.

The collection balanced respect for archives with personal expression. Original Chanel fabrics appeared in new silhouettes. House codes received fresh interpretation through Blazy's construction methods. The result suggested continuity without repetition.

Blazy's background in luxury leather goods informed his material approach. His years at Bottega Veneta focused attention on how fabrics drape, fold, and interact with the body. These skills transferred to his Chanel work, where textile quality has always been paramount.

The celestial theme provided conceptual unity without overwhelming the clothes. Stars appeared as embroidery details and print motifs. The idea of universal phenomena, experiences shared across time and geography, connected to Chanel's global reach and enduring influence.

The show signaled a new chapter for the house. Blazy demonstrated command of Chanel's vocabulary while introducing his own design language. The collection avoided nostalgia while acknowledging history. It presented clothes designed for wearing, not just admiring.

Fashion observers now wait to see how this initial vision develops. First collections establish direction but leave questions about evolution. Blazy has set his course, drawing from the past while looking toward what comes next.