Summary:
- Pieter Mulier exits ALAÏA after five years to take creative director role at Versace
- Prada Group officially announces the Belgian designer's appointment to lead the Italian fashion house
- Mulier will show his final ALAÏA collection in Paris this March before debuting at Versace in 2027
Pieter Mulier is leaving ALAÏA. The Belgian designer announced his departure from the French fashion house after five years as creative director. The move comes as Prada Group confirmed his appointment to lead Versace.
Mulier's tenure at ALAÏA brought commercial and critical success to the brand founded by Azzedine Alaïa. His collections honored the house's sculptural approach to women's clothing while bringing his own vision to the atelier. The decision to leave surprised industry observers given his strong performance at the maison.
Versace had been searching for a creative director since Donatella Versace stepped back from the role. Dario Vitale held the position briefly before Prada Group began looking for a long-term appointment. The company acquired Versace and has been working to position the brand for its next chapter.
Lorenzo Bertelli, Executive Chairman of Versace, spoke about the appointment. "When we evaluated the acquisition of Versace, we identified Pieter Mulier as the right person for the brand," he said. "We believe he will be able to establish a productive dialogue with the strong heritage of the mark."
The timing of the announcement suggests Prada Group had been in discussions with Mulier for some time. Fashion houses typically negotiate creative director contracts months before making them public. The coordination between his ALAÏA departure and Versace announcement points to careful planning on both sides.
Mulier trained at Raf Simons' studio before working at Christian Dior and Calvin Klein. He spent years as Simons' right hand before taking the ALAÏA role in 2020. His approach combines precise tailoring with an understanding of how clothes move on the body. These skills translate well to Versace's emphasis on construction and sensuality.
The designer's final collection for ALAÏA will show during Paris Fashion Week in March. This gives him several months to close out his work at the French house before transitioning to Milan. His first collection for Versace is scheduled for 2027, allowing time to study the archives and develop his vision for the brand.
ALAÏA now faces the task of finding a replacement. The house operates differently from other luxury brands, maintaining a focus on quality over constant newness. Whoever follows Mulier will need to understand this philosophy while bringing fresh ideas to the atelier.
Versace's aesthetic differs significantly from ALAÏA's. Where Azzedine Alaïa built his reputation on body-conscious knits and precise tailoring, Versace is known for bold prints, gold hardware, and overt sexuality. Mulier will need to balance respect for Gianni Versace's legacy with his own point of view.
Prada Group's acquisition of Versace positions the Italian conglomerate to compete with LVMH and Kering. The company owns Prada, Miu Miu, and Church's alongside Versace. Adding a designer with Mulier's track record strengthens their portfolio as they work to expand the Versace business globally.
The fashion industry watches these creative director changes closely. Designers moving between houses shape how brands evolve and how customers perceive luxury. Mulier's move from a smaller, focused atelier to a major commercial brand represents a shift in career trajectory.
His work at ALAÏA demonstrated technical skill and respect for craft. Whether those qualities translate to Versace's larger scale operation will become clear over the next few years. The brand needs someone who understands both its Italian heritage and its appeal to international customers.
The March show in Paris will offer a final look at what Mulier achieved at ALAÏA. Then attention turns to Milan, where he will begin interpreting Versace's codes for a new generation of clients. The industry will be watching to see how he handles the transition.
Kristin Kaye
Insatiably curious about human expression, she immerses herself in literature, theater, art, and dance. Her academic journey led to degrees in Modern Literature, where she delved into The Furioso, and Historical Sciences with a focus on Contemporary History. Her studies took her to the prestigious Erasmus University Rotterdam, broadening her international perspective.
Her passion for culture isn't confined to personal enjoyment—it spills onto the pages of various publications. There, she explores not only artistic endeavors but also civil rights issues and the myriad ways human culture manifests itself. For her, writing about these topics isn't just a profession; it's an irresistible calling that stems from her deep-seated fascination with the human experience.