In its 35th-anniversary collection, UNDERCOVER by Jun Takahashi presents "Interface", a nuanced exploration of the brand's evolving aesthetic that interweaves punk sensibilities, musical nostalgia, and contemporary design.
The collection unfolds as a carefully choreographed narrative, beginning with a monochromatic palette of black-on-black tailoring. Precise technical details dominate the initial segments: two-piece suits, double-breasted coats, and parkas feature visible taped stitching, creating a deconstructed architectural approach to menswear.
Takahashi's design methodology shifts dramatically midway through the presentation. The studio transforms with smoke machines and neon lasers, introducing a vibrant visual landscape that references 1970s Krautrock culture. Specific musical homages emerge through a white Faust sweater and a Moebius-inspired sleeveless hoodie, directly connecting fashion to alternative musical movements.
The collection's graphic elements reach a peak with a puffer jacket showcasing a full-print cyborg illustration, bridging science fiction aesthetics with contemporary streetwear. Layering becomes a key narrative device: leggings paired with brushed knit shorts, plaid skirts that echo Takahashi's punk origins, and tweed suit jackets with slim trousers demonstrate complex textile interactions.
A pivotal design element comes through monster illustrations by deceased Spanish artist Josep Baqué, which introduce a surreal, almost mythological dimension to the clothing. These graphic interventions challenge traditional menswear boundaries, blending fine art with fashion design.
Accessories provide textural counterpoints: garden gloves, bowler hats, and caps featuring floral prints and ornate jeweled embellishments soften the collection's more aggressive elements. The color progression tells its own story, transitioning from initial monochrome to a finale dominated by turquoise, electric blue, yellow, and red.
UNDERCOVER's FW25 collection emerges as a sophisticated meditation on musical subcultures, artistic collaboration, and the evolution of design language over three and a half decades.