FRANCESCO RISSO AFTER MARNI JOINS FAST RETAILING GROUP

Sergio Cattivelli

Summary:

• Francesco Risso left his position as creative director at Marni in June 2024 and has now joined Fast Retailing Group
• He will develop a new line for UNIQLO and serve as creative director for GU brand
• His debut collection for GU launches in fall/winter 2026

Francesco Risso has confirmed his next professional move following his unexpected departure from Marni. The Italian designer has joined Fast Retailing Group, the Japanese retail conglomerate behind UNIQLO and GU.

Risso left his role as creative director at Marni in June 2024 after several years leading the brand. His exit surprised many in the fashion industry. Now he returns with a dual role at one of the world's largest retail groups.

At Fast Retailing, Risso will work on two distinct projects. For UNIQLO, he will create a new collection line. This follows the company's existing collaborations with designers Clare Waight Keller and Jonathan Anderson. For GU, Risso takes on the position of creative director. This marks a full leadership role where he will shape the brand's overall direction.

Risso spoke about his decision to join Fast Retailing. "I want more than ever to create real clothes for real people", he said. "The future of fashion must be full of meaning and purpose. But for imagination to reach its full potential, bold ideas need infrastructure that reaches people worldwide."

His statement reflects a shift in focus. At Marni, Risso worked within the luxury segment. Fast Retailing operates on a different model. The company built its success on accessible pricing and wide distribution. UNIQLO alone operates thousands of stores across multiple continents.

The designer will launch his first collection for GU in fall/winter 2026. GU positions itself as a younger, trend-focused brand compared to UNIQLO's basics-oriented approach. The brand has strong presence throughout Asia. In 2024, GU expanded to the United States. The company opened its first flagship store in New York's SoHo neighborhood.

Risso's appointment signals Fast Retailing's continued investment in design talent. The company has previously brought in established names to elevate its brands. Collaborations with Jil Sander, Christophe Lemaire, and JW Anderson helped UNIQLO build credibility beyond basic apparel.

The move also reflects broader shifts in the fashion industry. Designers increasingly explore roles outside traditional luxury houses. The scale and resources of major retail groups offer different creative possibilities. Fast Retailing's infrastructure spans product development, manufacturing, and global distribution.

For Risso, the transition represents a complete change in context. Marni operates as an independent luxury label within the OTB Group. Collections target a niche audience willing to pay premium prices. GU serves mass market consumers across Asia and now North America.

How Risso adapts his creative vision to this new framework remains to be seen. His work at Marni featured bold prints, unexpected silhouettes, and artistic references. GU requires commercial viability at accessible price points. The designer will need to balance personal vision with business requirements.

Fast Retailing founder Tadashi Yanai has long emphasized the importance of design within the company's democratic fashion philosophy. The addition of Risso to the creative roster demonstrates ongoing commitment to this principle.

The announcement comes as Fast Retailing continues global expansion. The company reported strong financial results in recent quarters. Both UNIQLO and GU contribute to the group's growth strategy in different market segments.

Risso's first GU collection will arrive in approximately two years. Until then, development work takes place behind the scenes. The industry will watch closely to see how one of fashion's more conceptual designers translates his approach for a mass audience.