GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY RETURNS WITH NEW LABEL

Summary

• Russian designer restarts his fashion brand after closing it in 2018 following controversy
• New approach focuses on basic clothing items like T-shirts and hoodies for men and women
• Brand introduces stricter casting policies and plans online sales instead of fashion shows

Russian fashion designer Gosha Rubchinskiy has restarted his clothing brand. The designer closed his label in 2018 amid controversy.

Rubchinskiy shaped post-Soviet streetwear during the 2010s. His brand gained recognition for mixing Russian youth culture with high fashion. The designer told Business of Fashion he wants to "start everything anew."

The relaunched brand begins with basic items. The collection includes T-shirts, sweatpants, and hoodies for both men and women. Rubchinskiy explained his approach: "You start with the foundations. That is why we decided to start with a fairly basic line, and then, little by little, build up to something more extended."

Future plans include expanding into jeans and coats. The designer also considers adding couture and more womenswear pieces.

The brand has changed its model casting procedures. In 2018, allegations surfaced that Rubchinskiy solicited inappropriate images from a minor online. The designer denied these claims, saying his messages were misunderstood.

Rubchinskiy addressed the policy change directly. He said he was "naive thinking that model casting could be done via text messages." The new system requires live casting sessions with team members present.

The designer previously worked with Gosha Rubchinskiy, which managed his business operations and trademarks. He also co-founded the label Rassvet in 2022. After the controversy, Rubchinskiy took a role as head of design for YEEZY before leaving to focus on his own brand.

The relaunched label will sell basics online. The brand plans to work with retailers on special collections. Instead of traditional fashion week presentations, Rubchinskiy will organize a "small world tour."

His original brand built a following by capturing the aesthetic of Russian youth. The designer photographed young people in post-Soviet environments, creating a visual language that resonated globally. This approach helped establish him as a significant voice in contemporary streetwear.

The fashion industry has watched Rubchinskiy's career closely since the allegations emerged. His return represents an attempt to rebuild his reputation while maintaining his design vision.

The new collection reflects a more cautious approach. By focusing on basics, Rubchinskiy reduces financial risk while testing market response. The strategy allows gradual expansion based on consumer reception.

His decision to avoid traditional fashion shows aligns with broader industry changes. Many brands now prioritize direct consumer relationships over press coverage from runway presentations.

The casting policy changes address past concerns while protecting both the brand and potential models. This systematic approach shows Rubchinskiy has learned from previous mistakes.

Industry observers will monitor how consumers respond to the relaunch. The designer's ability to separate his personal brand from past controversies will determine long-term success.

Rubchinskiy's return occurs during a challenging period for Russian fashion. International sanctions and changing global attitudes toward Russian culture create additional obstacles for the designer.

The brand's online-first approach provides flexibility in reaching international markets. This strategy allows Rubchinskiy to bypass some traditional retail challenges while building direct consumer relationships.

Success will depend on whether the designer's aesthetic still resonates with contemporary audiences. Fashion trends have evolved since his original brand peak, requiring adaptation to current market conditions.