PDF'S PRISON-THEMED SHOW AT MILAN FASHION WEEK

Summary:

• Pdf presented its second Milan Fashion Week collection titled "Free-dom" in a recreated prison courtyard setting
• Creative director Domenico Formichetti used the prison theme as a metaphor for mental liberation and creative expression
• The show featured notable personalities including Rafael Leão and Tony Effe modeling streetwear with college-inspired elements

Domenico Formichetti's menswear label Pdf returned to Milan Fashion Week with its spring-summer 2026 collection, marking the brand's second appearance at the Italian fashion capital. The show, titled "Free-dom", took place in an elaborate prison courtyard replica, complete with actors dressed as inmates in striped uniforms.

The setting served multiple purposes for Formichetti, who goes by "Dom" professionally. The creative director connected the prison concept to what he calls a "freedom project", referenced through embroidered patches on show invitations that depicted a penitentiary silhouette. The wordplay in the collection's title also represents Formichetti's own metaphorical liberation as a designer.

Before models took to the runway, audiences watched fake prisoners occupy the courtyard space, passing time through basketball games, exercise routines, and cigarette breaks. Formichetti designed this opening sequence to represent his internal creative process.

"I wanted to make my mind visible", Formichetti explained. He described how these characters embodied his thoughts, uncertainties, and unconventional visions. The designer compared his creative mind to a confined space where emotions become trapped, with fashion design serving as the primary escape route.

The theatrical presentation reached its climax when orange smoke filled the courtyard and the metaphorical cage opened, allowing the designer's concepts to emerge. This transition marked the beginning of the actual fashion presentation.

The casting included several recognizable figures from sports and entertainment. AC Milan footballer Rafael Leão walked alongside rapper Tony Effe, NFL players Stefon Diggs and Alvin Kamara, and Julez Smith. These personalities modeled pieces that reflected Pdf's signature approach to streetwear, incorporating references from music, athletics, and various subcultures.

The collection balanced oversized jackets and pants with more streamlined silhouettes drawing from collegiate aesthetics. Vinyl emerged as a key material throughout the line, adding an unexpected element of luxury to the street-focused designs. Formichetti wore vinyl himself during his final runway appearance.

The show reinforced Pdf's position within the streetwear segment while demonstrating Formichetti's ability to blend conceptual storytelling with commercial appeal. The prison theme allowed the designer to explore themes of constraint and freedom while presenting wearable pieces that maintain the brand's established identity.

Milan Fashion Week provided the platform for this theatrical presentation, where Formichetti's personal creative journey became part of the collection's narrative. The elaborate staging and celebrity casting reflected current trends in fashion presentation, where brands seek to create memorable experiences beyond traditional runway formats. Take a behind-the-scenes look at the show through the lens of our photographer, Costanza Terranova, browse the full photo report in the gallery above.