Summary:
- The Morning Raga collection takes cues from modernist architects, particularly Balkrishna Doshi
- Garments blend uniform silhouettes with varied textures, including wool topcoats, silk shirts, and cotton knits
- The line features collaborative pieces with artisans from Botswana and traditional English makers
Wales Bonner presents Fall/Winter 2026 under the title Morning Raga. The collection centers on modernist architecture as its primary reference point. Designer Grace Wales Bonner studied the work of Balkrishna Doshi, an Indian architect known for his approach to elemental form and spatial balance.
The garments demonstrate a tension between utility and refinement. Wales Bonner reworked classic uniform shapes through fabric choices. A polo shirt receives an update with a satin sash that suggests ceremonial dress. Silk shirts appear in color blocks of ivory and Atlantic blue. Italian wool forms the base for a topcoat and chore jacket, both displaying a minimal grid pattern.
John Coltrane's Meditations provided the sonic backdrop for the presentation. The music established an environment focused on contemplation and cross-cultural dialogue. This theme extends into the textiles. Madras check patterns and Bengal-stripe shirting appear in crinkled cotton, offering a seasonal interpretation of traditional weaves.
Architectural brooches serve as key accessories throughout the collection. Artisans Beullah Serema and Peter Mabeo created these pieces in Botswana. They worked with Panga Panga wood and semi-precious stones, bringing material weight and regional craft techniques to the garments.
The collection includes partnerships with established makers. John Smedley, an English knitwear producer, contributed tonal cotton and merino pieces that prioritize comfort. Anderson & Sheppard, Savile Row tailors with a long history in formal menswear, produced an indigo linen tuxedo. The construction offers a lighter alternative to conventional evening wear.
Wales Bonner introduces the Studio Moccasin as new footwear for the mainline collection. The shoe appears in zebra-print pony hair, adding texture contrast to the garments above.
The designer's interest in architecture manifests through structure and proportion. Doshi's philosophy emphasized buildings that respond to climate, culture, and human needs without excess decoration. Wales Bonner translates this approach into clothing that serves function while maintaining visual interest through material combinations.
Fabric selection plays a central role. Silk brings fluidity to shirting. Wool provides body for outerwear. Cotton and merino offer softness in knitted pieces. Each material choice affects how the garment moves and how it relates to the body wearing it.
The color palette stays restrained. Ivory and Atlantic blue create clear divisions on silk shirts. Indigo appears in the linen tuxedo. Natural tones dominate the knits. This limited range allows the focus to shift to cut, construction, and textile quality.
Wales Bonner continues to build connections between disparate cultural references. The collection moves between Indian architecture, African craft traditions, English textile production, and American jazz. These elements coexist within individual pieces and across the broader lineup.
The Morning Raga collection marks another step in Wales Bonner's ongoing exploration of form, heritage, and making processes. The designer maintains her practice of looking beyond fashion to other disciplines for structural and conceptual frameworks. Architecture provides the foundation this season, translated into garments that balance restraint with careful detail.